Showing posts with label Kathmandu. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kathmandu. Show all posts

Monday, October 21, 2013

“The heart of the person before you is a mirror. See there your own form.” 
-Shinto Saying


Over the past year I've made it a goal to sift back through 1000s of photos from the past 7+ years, images that span 3 continents, over 21 countries and countless cultures and people. I began with old assignments from WKU, projects from 3 newspapers, then jumped to South Korea, SE Asia and finally Africa. During this process, I began to recognize images that felt similar to me, the gesture of the hand throw back in a moment of abundant joy is identical in a young American girl as it is in novice Buddhist monk in Thailand. I've sat in silence with wise women watching the world go by from the comfort of their front porch in a remote Karen Hill Tribe in Northern Thailand with Mamma Mo's work roughened hand holding mine and in the Appalachian region of Eastern Kentucky with Aunt Susie silently nodding off. Kind, strong women with the lines of hardship and joy etched into their faces. I also began to see amusing and sometimes disturbing juxtaposition of every day life; jobs, expectations of motherhood and the expression of love. 

Over the next few weeks I'm going to post the best of these, combining images from all over the world into diptychs that begin to contextualize individual lives into a universal tapestry. 

I hope you enjoy! 

(Left) A Young Nepali mother at Boudhanath Stupa, Kathmandu, Nepal.
(Right) Jeane, 2, and her mother, Deanne York
prepare for the Cordell Hull Festival Pageant in Byrdstown Tenn.

Monday, September 27, 2010






















It was one of those nights you knew would live like a ghost in your memory to be called up by the tinkle of Nepali music or smell of cheap cigarettes or a sorely out of place Irish pub plopped in the middle of Asia. And one of us will say, remember that time when...we showered for the first time in weeks, and shared that delicious Greek salad and peanut sauce satay and Nepali milk tea and chocolate cake with ice cream and chicken milk at that little Italian restaurant that we went to so often they greeted us by name and made special farewell coffee drinks for us? Or maybe it will be the brush of warm feet, or golden streaks in shaggy hair, or the telling of long stories and hard questions that will remind me.
We flew from Lukla to Kathmandu at 10am and it was like a stereo had been switched on to blaring. A part of me felt an odd sense of welcome, a strange happiness to see this dirty jumble of humanity. As if I had come home and yet not. And then the noise, the honking, the bargaining and shouting and dodging peddlers and puddles and bikes towing large carriages and manic taxi drivers became overwhelming and I was longing for the cool quiet mountains again.
We took a taxi to a sacred river where bodies are burned and then swallowed in its depth and final farewells are said. Hurt and wounded and crippled people lined the block around the welfare house begging for money and food and I could not take a picture. I could not take away their dignity. The very act of taking a photo for myself, of displaying their pain seemed selfish. It is one of the only times I have felt this way, felt that without a purpose, without a message, without giving back in some way my photographs would be exploitative. Their misery washed through me, one small cry that expressed the misery of the whole world.
As the evening light fell I made my way to the river side milling around and feeling a wee bit useless. One beautifully winkled old lady in colorful Nepali dress took my hand and led me with her and laid out a grain bag for me to sit on as if she had been expecting me. Other women plopped down around us in front of what I gathered from hand gestures and random English words is a building where the old go to die. Behind the cool wall lining my back lay wrinkled and age wizened bodies waiting for the final breathes of their spirit to slip away peacefully and join with the slow moving swirls of the river. The group of women chatter aimlessly at me in Nepali, touching my arms, my hair, and happily smearing a red, slightly sour smelling goop on my forehead and hair in a blessing. I gather that something is going to happen and that we are waiting and that when it does happen i am to take pictures, but not now. So I sit with them as they hum softly, swaying with their movement, receiving curious stares from other foreigners, thinking how I must look, one strange girl tightly encircled by brightly dressed old Nepali women. Blessed. As the last glint of light skims the horizon they each get up slowly and begin to dance in a pool of golden light, me in tow. Their beautiful dark wrinkled skin turned golden by the street light, swirling silhouettes against an incredibly blue blue sky.
They were my angels. I don't care why they took my hand and led me with them to the river, but their kindness touched my heart and in that poignant moment we were literally perched there, on the stone steps, in between life and death. What is life but a flamboyant balancing act that will eventually tip over into death? And so to thank them for welcoming me like a daughter I did what they asked me to and what I do best, took pictures, praying that one of them would express the channel of love flowing from my heart to theirs and back again.

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

Nameste from Nepal


We swapped Tibetan mountains for a jumble of buildings, honking cars, and masses of unwashed humans that is the city of Kathmandu. Inge and I hit the ground running, picking up necessary trekking gear during our whirlwind trip through Tamel and plopping ourselves down in the airport at 6am the next morning, excitedly waiting for our flight number to be called. And we waited...and waited...We went from sitting attentively to sprawled across uncomfortable benches, slobbering all over our new fancy gear. One by one hopeful hikers dropped like flies, some having waited up to 7 days for the skies to clear. But not us, nope, the bad weather couldn't possibly stick around with our clean, shiny faces in the vicinity, right?! In between catnaps, I cracked open my new book, The Alchemist, and latched onto my new favorite trip quote:
"When you want something, all the universe conspires in helping you achieve it!"
And so we sat there day after day, wanting Everest Base Camp with every corner of our squishy hearts and drinking overpriced Nepali milk tea.
On Day 3 a dusty young Irishman (aka Podge) approached us with an ingenious helicopter escape plan that entailed us finding our wallets and 2 other passengers for the ride. After a few seconds and mulling over the torturous last few days, we agreed! And so we scurried around the airport, from one set of weary looking travelers to the next, Podge working his magic with the ladies and Inge and I taking on the guys. Soon we had a whole group of converts and were ready to hit the skies, but the weather turned even too evil for our beautiful bird...
Day4: Our last chance at Everest. We all filed into the airport with shoulders dropping and spirits low. We had agreed to change our MO today and to act as if there was no place in the world we'd rather be then chilling our heels in the wonderful Kathmandu airport in hopes that this would trick the grouchy Everest gods into letting down their clouds. We wore different clothes, bandannas, hair up instead of down, choose seats closer to the front...4pm finds us broke, we start planning the incredible dinner we're going to have to make up for another dismal day...then the call comes..."Better weather"...psh...If I had a penny for every time I heard that! So NOT impressed. Then we are carted to the waiting room, still looking so apathetic you'd think our grandmother just died. It worked! We are zooming across the tarmac towards the prettiest darn lil helicopter I ever clapped eyes on! And in one of the most happy and exciting moments of my life we take off and that, my friends, is how we escaped the jumble of Kathmandu for the cool green mountains of the Himalayan!
Meet the Everest Base Camp crew, together we tag teamed it all the way to the top!

Colin, 5th Grade New York teacher/philosopher

Podge, the Irish nomad

Us, two purple booted, camera totting dweebs

And Sebastiaan, (Sorry man, never got the chance to grab your portrait basically)







More photos coming soon!
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